Okra is heat loving crop, originating in North Africa, where it was been cultivated for centuries. Okra was introduced to Brazil in 
1658 and entered North America with the slave trade. With an increasing interest in regional cooking, okra is finding its way into more grocery stores and more Saskatchewan home gardens.

Okra is member of the Mallow family and is closely related to the tropical flowering hibiscus. This close relationship explains the large, attractive, yellow flowers produced by this plant. The heart-shaped, lobed leaves have long stems and are attached to a thickly wood stem. The fruit develops in the leaf axil and is a long generally ribbed pod that develops rapidly after flowering.

Although okra prefers a long, hot growing season, cultivars have been developed that are fast maturing and small fruited. These dwarf types reach a height of 2 feet and require 7-9 weeks to mature. Some cultivars that do well locally include Emerald, Dark Green Long Pod, Anne Oakly and Perkins Spineless. Although more difficult to obtain, the cultivar Burgundy produces a novel 
purple pod. Like tomatoes and peppers, okra needs special attention to cultural practices. Okra should be started indoors 3-6 weeks before the last frost. Once the risk of frost is over, transplant into a sunny sheltered spot in the garden, or against a south-facing wall or fence. This will be the optimal microenvironment for okra. You can further enhance the growing conditions by the use of plastic mulch and row covers.

The soil should be loose and of moderate fertility. Care must be taken to avoid root damage when transplanting, as okra is sensitive to root shock. Adding compost or other organic matter to the soil prior to planting will increase both the quantity and quality of the fruit. Okra should be planted 1 foot apart. For the average home garden, 4-6 plants should be sufficient, as much each plant will produce a kilogram of pods. Okra will tolerate drought, but responds to plenty of water. Okra has no major insect 
or disease problems, but is very frost sensitive.

The pods are ready to be harvested once they are 2-4 inches long. If allowed to grow larger they become tough and fibrous. Harvesting often (every 2-3 days), and thoroughly ensures continued production. Pods can be removed by hand or with the 
aid of scissors or knife.

Okra should be used the same day as harvested or frozen. Fresh okra should be stored below 45 F, otherwise chilling injury and decay will occur. Pods may be sliced and cooked in soups, curries and stews, where they have thickening effect. Okra forms an integral part of many Cajun and Creole recipes. In some countries okra is dried (bamia) for long-term storage. 

Okra is not well adapted to Oregon climatic conditions, requiring high soil temperatures and high day and night temperatures for best production. Okra may be grown in the warmer parts of the state when special efforts are made to provide the proper environmental conditions. This would include the use of plastic mulch and wind breaks to improve temperatures around the plant and in the soil. 

VARIETIES

Green types:
Blondy, 48-50 days, dwarf plant 3' high, spineless, ribbed, lime-green. 
Prelude, 52 days, plants 3-4' tall. 
Clemson Spineless, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods 5-6" long, large diameter, most commonly available variety. 
Emerald, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods to 8" long, small diameter. 
Perkins Mammoth Long Pod, 60 days, plants 6 to 10' tall, pods 7-8" long, intense green.
Cajun Delight
Green Best

Red types:
Red Okra, 55 to 65 days, 3 to 4' tall, bushy plants with 6 to 7" pods. 
Red Velvet, similar to Red Okra.
Burgundy
 

SOIL
Well drained, sandy soils are preferred. Addition of manure or other organic material 
is usually beneficial on such light-textured soils. Okra grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soils, pH 6.5-7.5.
 

TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS
Okra is a tropical plant requiring warm growing conditions. Commercial production is recommended 
only in the warmest portions of the state. Night temperatures should be above 55 F for good growth.
Minimum soil temperature for germination is 60 F. Optimum soil temperature range is 75-90 F.
 

SEEDING
Okra seed numbers approximately 8,000 per pound. Use approximately 8-12 lb seed/acre. 
Plant 1 inch deep, 4-6 seeds/foot of row. Thin to desired spacing when plants are 3 inches tall.
Germination many be enhanced by soaking seeds several (4-6 hours) hours or overnight immediately before planting. 
The seed will need to be surface dried for mechanical planting.
 

SPACING
Rows 36-48 inches apart, 12-24 inches between plants. Tall or spiny cultivars require wide spacing.
 

TRANSPLANTING
Growers interested in early fresh market or in short growing season areas may find it profitable to transplant. Sow seeds in 2-inch pots or cell-packs, 3 seeds per pot, 1/4 inch deep, 4-5 weeks ahead of transplanting. Thin to 1 plant per pot or cell.
 

FERTILIZER
The following are general recommendations. Before planting apply:

Nitrogen: 30-50 lb/acre applied at planting. Side dress with an additional 35-50 lb N/acre when plants are 8-10 inches tall, 
or use 25 lb N/acre after first fruit set and again after 4-6 weeks at the same rate. Adequate nitrogen is necessary to ensure 
a long harvest period; however, excessive rates are to be avoided as they can cause okra to become excessively vegetative.

Phosphorus: 50-100 lb/acre, all applied at, or before planting.
 

IRRIGATION
Okra requires adequate soil moisture throughout its entire growing period if optimum growth and yield are to be obtained. 
Avoid heavy early irrigations as these can cool the soil and slow development.
 

PLASTIC ROW COVERS AND MULCHES
Black plastic mulch may increase soil temperatures, will control weeds, and conserve moisture, increasing yield and earliness. 
For black plastic mulch to increase soil temperature, it is critical that the soil surface be smooth and that the plastic adhere to 
the soil surface. This can only be accomplished with a plastic laying maching designed and adjusted properly for this purpose. 
Clear plastic mulch is very effective at increasing soil temperature but does not control weeds.

A new generation of plastic mulch films allows for good weed control together with soil warming that is intermediate between black plastic and clear film. These films are called IRT (infrared-transmitting) or wavelength-selective films. They are more expensive than black or clear films, but may be cost-effective where soil warming is important.

A new generation of plastic mulch films allows for good weed control together with soil warming that is intermediate between black plastic and clear film. These films are called IRT (infrared-transmitting) or wavelength-selective films. They are more expensive than black or clear films, but may be cost-effective where soil warming is important. (See also section on spacing).

Plastic, spunbonded, and non-woven materials have been developed as crop covers for use as windbreaks, for frost protection, 
and to enhance yield and earliness. They complement the use of plastic mulch and drip irrigation in many crops. Some sources 
of these materials and information on their use are: 

American AgriFabrics, Alpharetta, GA. Phone 770-663-700, fax: 770-663-7690, email: dan@agrofabric.com.
Ken-Bar, Inc., Reading, MA. Phone: 800-336-8882, fax: 781-944-1055, email: kenbarinc@msn.com.

 Non-woven or spunbonded polyester and polypropylene, and perforated polyethylene, row covers may be used for 4-8 weeks immediately after transplanting. Covers should be removed when plants begin to flower to permit proper pollination. Row covers 
can increase heat unit accumulation by 2-3 times over ambient. Up to 4 F of frost protection may also be obtained at night. Soil temperatures and root growth can also be increased under row covers as are early yields, and in some cases total yields.
 

HARVESTING, HANDLING, AND STORAGE
Okra pods should be harvested while still tender and before the seeds are half grown. This is usually 5-6 days after flowering. 
Pods with tips that will bend between the fingers without breaking are too tough for use as fresh fruit. Consumer preference demands pods 2.5-3.5 inches long. Okra should be harvested about 3 times each week. Regular picking increases yield. Remove and discard old pods from the plant as such pods will retard pod set and reduce total yield. Under good conditions 300 to 400 lb might be obtained per picking per acre. In the warmer, longer season areas of Oregon (the Columbia and Snake River areas) 
okra might be harvested over a 50 to 60 day season. 

Okra plants and pods may have small spines to which some people are allergic. 
Pickers should wear gloves and long sleeved shirts as skin protection.

STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):
Hold okra at 45 to 50 F and 90 to 95 % relative humidity. Okra deteriorates rapidly and is normally stored only briefly to hold for marketing or processing. Large quantities are canned, frozen or brined. It has a very high respiration rate at warm temperatures and should therefore be promptly cooled to retard heating and subsequent deterioration.

Okra in good condition can be stored satisfactorily for 7 to 10 days at 45 to 50 F. At higher temperatures toughening, yellowing, 
and decay are rapid. A relative humidity of 90 to 95 % is desirable to prevent shriveling. At temperatures below 45 F, okra is 
subject to chilling injury, which is manifested by surface discoloration, pitting, and decay. Holding okra for 3 days at 32 F may 
cause severe pitting. Contact ice or top ice will cause water spotting in 2 or 3 days.

Fresh okra bruises easily, the bruises blackening within a few hours. A bleaching type of injury may also develop when okra is 
held in hampers for more than 24 hours without refrigeration. Storage containers should permit ventilation.

Prepackaging in perforated film is helpful, both to prevent wilting and physical injury during handling. 
Results of a packaging study suggest that 5 to 10 % carbon dioxide in the atmosphere lengthens 
shelf life by about a week. Higher concentrations of carbon dioxide caused off-flavors.
 

PACKAGING
Okra is shipped in bushel hampers or crates, holding 30 lb net; 5/9-bushel crates, 18 lb net; 12-quart baskets, 
15-18 lb net; or loose pack in cartons or L.A. lugs, 18 lb net.
 

PEST CONTROL FOR OKRA

WEED CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Herbicides registered for okra, 
but not evaluated by University personnel in the Pacific Northwest, include glyphosate and trifluralin. Consult labels for rates, restrictions, and weeds controlled. Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultivation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control. 

INSECT CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Insecticides registered, but not evaluated 
in the Pacific Northwest, include Cythion, Bacillus thuringiensis, malathion, Nemacur, Sevin, and Telone. Consult labels for rates, restrictions, and insects controlled. Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.

DISEASE CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Fungicides registered, but not 
evaluated in the Pacific Northwest, include Apron and Telone. Consult labels for rates, restrictions, and diseases controlled.

Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. 
Fields can be tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources reduces risk from "seedborne" diseases.

Use spacings and irrigations practices that minimize diseases and allow for cultivation. Choose fields free of perennial weeds 
and where related crops have not been grown for the previous three years to minimize problems with diseases and weeds.

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THE QUICK OKRA FAQ

Q. How often should okra be harvested and how can you tell when it is ready?

A. Okra requires frequent harvesting. For peak quality, it must be harvested before the pods become tough. Okra matures 
rapidly, especially in hot weather. Approximately 4 days are required from flowering to harvest maturity. Okra should be harvested every other day. Pod size will vary with variety, but length will generally be 4 to 6 inches. Test larger pods by cutting through them with a sharp knife. If it is difficult to cut through them, they are tough and unsuitable for serving. Remove old pods from the plant or it will stop producing.
 

Q. Can okra plants be pruned during late summer or early fall for additional production until the first killing frost?

A. Yes, but it might be best to simply make a mid-summer planting instead of pruning off spring-seeded plants. When pruned, 
the plants will develop a bush rather than a single stalk which usually makes harvesting difficult. Pruning should be done 80 to 
100 days before the first anticipated fall frost is anticipated allowing the plants time to produce additional pods.
 

Q. Can seed from this year's okra crop be saved for next year's planting?

A. Yes. Okra is a self-pollinated crop and seed can be saved from one year's garden for the next. Toward the end of the 
season allow some of the pods to remain on the plant and harvest them when they become fully mature and almost dry. 
If you allow okra pods to remain on the plant and fully mature, subsequent production is greatly curtailed.
 

Q. Is there anything special about the red podded varieties of okra?

A. No. This is a selection or variety which produces red-colored okra. When cooked, the red color disappears and the pods 
take on the normal green appearance.
 

Q. Small drops of liquid are oozing from various areas of the leaves and stems of my okra plants. What causes this?

A. You are describing natural secretions from the okra plant through glands on the leaves and stems. 
This is a natural process of the plant and causes no damage.
 

Q. What causes my garden okra to fail to grow properly when planted in the early spring?

A. Maybe it was planted too early. Okra should be planted 3 to 4 weeks after the last spring frost to produce an abundant 
supply of fresh garden okra. If planted before soil temperatures warm up and before night temperatures average above 50 degrees F., okra fails to grow properly. Okra is a close relative of cotton and should be planted about the same time cotton is planted.
 

Q. I transplanted some okra I purchased at a local nursery. It is stunted and not growing. What should I do?

A. Please, don't waste your garden dollars! Always plant crops such as beans, beets, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, 
corn, cucumbers, kale, mustard, okra, peas, radishes, squash, turnips and watermelons from seed. These plants are 
difficult to transplant and transplanting offers no advantage over seeding directly in the garden.
 

Q. Are there any foliage diseases that affect okra in the garden?

A. Several foliage problems occur on okra. One commonly observed is Ascochyta, a disease normally found on cotton, a close relative to okra. Losses from this disease are minimal and do not warrant a control program.
 

Q. My okra did not grow properly last year. When I removed it at the end of the season, the roots were damaged by galls and swellings.

A. The damage was a result of root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on 
plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. 
Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid 
stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the first killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shred and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.
 

Q. What causes okra pods to be crooked and bent rather than straight?

A. This could be caused by insects feeding on the pods. Certain sucking insects, such as stinkbugs and leaf-footed bugs, 
inject chemicals into the pods causing the pods to stop or slow down growth in that area. The other side, which is growing 
normally, results in a curved or bent pod. The pods can still be eaten. No control is necessary unless the bugs are still 
feeding on the plants.
 

Q. I have long funny-looking insects running around my okra stalks. Do they hurt the plant?

A. These insects are sharpshooters. They suck juice from the plants causing buds to shed. Control with Sevin. 
Use as directed on the label.
 

Q. I have ants all over my okra. Do they hurt the plants?

A. It was once thought that ants did not hurt okra production and were mainly visiting okra plants to get honey-dew produced by sharpshooters, aphids or other sucking insects. However, that was before the imported fireant. Fireants feed on the base of developing blooms before the bloom buds open causing them to abort. This will cause okra to stop producing. Locate fireant mounds and kill the mounds or use baits around the outside of the garden area to kill the inconspicuous mounds.

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